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San Vigilio di Marebbe 39030 - ITALY

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PIZ DE MEDESC (2713 Altitude)

PIZ DE MEDESC

THE ASCENT

First you have to reach the saddle of Forcela dla Crusc following itinerary n. 9 or itinerary 9a (ascending variation). Here we explain the latter:

From the Lavarella hut head South-West, in direction of the valley between the Piz Stiga on the left and the shelves of Pices Fanes on the right. Climb it staying either on the bottom or on the right side, depending on the snow conditions. After a steeper slope we finally reach the hollow of Lé Parom.

This is passed by on the Northern side and, keeping at height, head East and continue on steady slopes to the base of more marked undulations. Approximately at the exit of the hollow of Lé Parom, the access itinerary “D” descends from Forcela de Medesc and your path. Pass by the elevation 2436 from the South or on a good canal from North, then start climbing up with wide turns, the first right and second left, until the base of the slabs which peak at 2633 m altitude. Continue as in itinerary n. 9 until the saddle of Forcela dla Crusc.

From here, keep possibly on the side of the plateau (East) and walk the wide north-western ridge, surpassing the moderate elevation of Piz dl Ciantun (2673 m) and climbing up the last slope until the peak.

WALKING TIME

2 3/4 - 4 hours

THE DESCEND

From the summit, descend on the north-western ridge until the Forcela dla Crusc and, as in itineraries n. 9 and 9a, to the Lavarella hut.

10 a) Descent variation:

From the Forcela dla Crusc, slanting to the right (SE direction) and lowering through bumps and irregular undulations, we reach a hollow below the saddle of Forcela de Medesc at 2426 m altitude. Turning on the left in eastern direction and passing by the elevation 2518 from the North, continue the descent surpassing at the base the western flank of the pointed peaks of Pizes da Lé (2683 – 2697 m). After surpassing the northern edge of said peaks, we reach the crossroads with descent itinerary n. 9a. Follow it to the Lavarella hut.

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES

  • Just like S1; some soft terrain irregularities and hollows. The descent is free
  • Intermediate skier: he can manage descends ot the S3 difficulty type as well, as long as they are not continuous or very long

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

  • Ski skins

ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE

675 m

PRINT ITINERARY

PIZ DE LAVARELA I (3055 Altitude)

THE ASCENT

Val Parom and northern ridge

Classic and fairly difficult ascent, but very interesting itinerary. The descent unfolds on the northern slopes and presents almost always perfect snow conditions.

From the Lavarella mountain hut, as in itinerary n. 10 until the hollow of Lé Parom. Surpass the hollow on the eastern bank of the lake (direction South-West) and proceed through the Val Parom (valley) between the Pizes da Lé West and the Piz Parom East. The valley is bared at the bottom (South) by the high crest of the Piz de Lavarela.

Go through the entire valley and then, turning right, reach the base of a snowy gully which ends in a small saddle on the northern ridge (South of the altitude 2894). Leave your skis at the base and climb the gully up to the peak and walk the crest upwards heading South, until reaching the peak. The crest is quite sharp at the beginneng but then it widens.

Ascent variation:

The hollow of Lé Parom can be reached as in itinerary n. 14, until the base of the northern slopes of Piz Stiga and then lowering in western direction towards the Parom peak, until reaching the former itinerary.

WALKING TIME

4 - 5 hours

THE DESCEND

Retrace the ascent itinerary. From the peak, descend the northern ridge until the small saddle South of the elevation 2894 and then, through the eastern side gully, descend until you reach the head of the Val Parom. Put on your skis again and head for a fast and beautiful descent, with esciting variations and turns on the open and free terrain, until you reach the hollow of the Lé Parom. From here follow itinerary n. 9a to the Lavarella hut.

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES

  • Just like S1; some soft terrain irregularities and hollows. The descent is free
  • Intermediate skier: he can manage descends ot the S3 difficulty type as well, as long as they are not continuous or very long

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

  • Ski skins
  • Climber and ice axe

USEFUL SUGGESTIONS

  • Tour for compact snow conditions

ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE

PRINT ITINERARY

PIZ DE LAVARELA II (3055 Altitude)

PIZ DE LAVARELA

THE ASCENT

Büsc da Stlü and southern ridge

As the previous one, it is a complete and exceptionally interesting itinerary, both from a mountaineering and skiing point of view.

From the Lavarella mountain hut, follow the curvy road climbing up to the Jù de Limo pass (2172 m), until you reach the very visible cross.

Proceed then on the softly descending terrain in south-eastern direction in the Alta Val de Fanes. Pass by the Lé de Limo lake on its right and reach the small barracks at 2150 m altitude. Leave on the left the middle section of the Val de Fanes, which continues descending to Cortina. Instead proceed on the right (East), descending towards the alpine hut of Gran Fanes (2102 m). Continue in direction SSW, following the valley towards the Jù dal'Ega, without reaching it, but instead stopping at the massive landslide with huge rocks and boulders (Majarëi Gran). From here take a deviation to the right (West) and enter the large gully between the high crest of the Piz dles Cunturines and Piz Taibun, South, and the body of Lavarela – Parom on the North. The valley's name is Büsc da Stlü (hole to close). It starts with a quite steep leap, which is passed by on the right climbing up in a zig zag fashion. Right after this, the gully widens and the incline gets softer and more uniform.

If possible, keep on the right and pass by the modest hollow of the Lé Dlacè (Frozen Lake, 2518 m), always remaining at high altitudes. Here proceed in the direction of the small saddle on the southern ridge of the mountain and the Piz Dles Dües Forceles. After reaching 2885 m altitude, climb up North on a short and steep incline facing a carve. A few meters before, take off the skis and climb up a rocky canal, reaching the crest lying above. Walk it facing North, passing by another slope and a steep canal, thus exiting on the summit ridge and, following it for a short time, reaching the peak.

WALKING TIME

4 - 6 hours

THE DESCEND

There are two possibilities:

a) Retrace the ascent itinerary: descend on the ridge and then through the small canal, rappelling down from it, if needed. Put the skis back on and descend carefully the slope untile the saddle at 2885 m altitude. The following descent on the gully of Büsc da Stlü is amusing and fast, leading to the slopes over the Jù dal'Ega. Ski down them with a series of sharp serpentines and reach the valley bottom turning NNE, in direction of the hut of Gran Fanes. Procced to the Jù de Limo and then to the Lavarella mountain hut.

b) The descent itinerary n. 11. This solution is recommended when the snow conditions are very good and orientation problems are not an issue. This second solution allows the complete crossing of the mountain. It is also possible in the opposite direction.

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES

  • Just like S1; some soft terrain irregularities and hollows. The descent is free
  • The slope is more marked (30° ÷ 35°). It is not always easy to proceed in a straight line; it is necessary to bend more often, the terrain opens giving a certain degree of route choice
  • Good skier: he can confidently engage in S3 descends; he can manage descends ot the higher difficulty type as well, as long as they are not continuous or very long

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

  • Ski skins
  • Climber and ice axe

USEFUL SUGGESTIONS

  • Knowledge about the snow features are necessary
  • Tour for compact snow conditions

ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE

995 m

PRINT ITINERARY
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